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| Posted on 3/21/08 at 06:17 AM | |
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I'm coming into this late....sorry. The product you need is Naz-Dar 1500 series ink. You will also need the correct retarder thinner for it. Depending on your shop temperature don't add retarder more than 3-5% by weight. Just enough to keep the ink from drying in the screen as you set up the plastic parts with teh screen flooded. Get the appropriate clean up thinners. Use 230 to 305 mesh. Nothing finer. Keep tension to 25ncm plus. Watch your emulsion thickness. Probably on a 230 a 1/1 coat with the rounded edge and a wet on dry face coat with teh thin edge on the print side will be fine. The material you are using is NOT the material that is being explained in the previous answer posts. ABS (acrylic butyl styrene) is usually black or gray. Not transparent. You are confusing SAN(styrene acrylonitrile) or PMMA (Polymethyl methacrylate..which is regular acrylic or plexiglas where you have to heat seal edges)..... with ABS. ABS is the common black plastic that is heated and vacuum formed either before or after printing to make comtrol panels, game consoles, instrument clusters etc. The issues you need to work out are how deep the part you are printing will be drawn into the mold while it is being formed. It may distort or crack the printed ink. You may need to actually print the finished part after molding...not before. Yes your textile dryer will do ok. Turn the temp down. You need about 125-150F for this ink nothing more. The parts should then be set on racks to dry further for up to 24 hours for best results. Ray | ||
 
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